Hi Tomboys!
Welcome to the freak show, our first-ever edition of Tomboy. This will be a bi-monthly space (I’m thinking first and third Fridays) to educate, celebrate, and uplift the women of streetwear’s past and present. I’m so glad you’re here.
Honestly, this is a project I’ve been planning and procrastinating for months. I set up this Substack in January, after brainstorming different ways to expand the ARIES-verse, and then immediately let my crippling cocktail of imposter syndrome and perfectionism shut down construction. After working so hard on the last zine, and not reaching the goals I set for myself, I fell into an ego-driven heartbreak.
If what I’m making is not absolutely the greatest, Pulitzer-prize winning, Instagram-viral, impactful thing to ever exist, I have a tendency to shoot myself in the foot before even starting. So, this newsletter is a self-experiment on imperfection. The structure might change, my writing may not always be jaw-dropping, but that’s perfectly okay. Tomboy is a space of fluidity, imperfection, and learning — both on my end and yours.
Also, on the note of telling my ego to fuck itself, I’ve decided that from now on, the ARIES zine will be 100% nonprofit. Every sale of Issue 003: Hip Hop will be donated directly to Hip Hop For Change, minus shipping costs. If you haven’t ordered a print issue yet and would like to, head here.
Anyways! Here’s the structure every Tomboy newsletter will follow:
Musings and explanations of what’s going on in streetwear right now — and, if you’re lucky, what’s going on with my own personal chemical imbalances and/or sneaker misadventures (you’re in this section right now)
Tomboy Muse: a mini-profile of a woman, or femme-centric cultural event, that shaped the course of streetwear as we know it
Q&A: A 10-question chat with women who are shaping the course of streetwear as we speak
The Tomboy Edit: A personal curation of newly dropped products from femme-founded brands or female designers
Let’s dive in.
The first ever Tomboy Muse goes to a woman I will never stop being obsessed with/fascinated by, Baby Phat designer and gilded mansion-owner Kimora Lee Simmons.
Kimora Lee took control of Baby Phat in 1999, after looking at her then-husband Russell Simmons’ attempt at womenswear and iconically saying “I would never wear this.” While Baby Phat was launched as an extension of Russell Simmons’ Phat Farm brand, Kimora Lee transformed the half-hearted diffusion into one of the most recognizable and era-defining empires of the ‘00s. If you attended elementary school from 2002-2010, you would have sacrificed at least one of your parents for a feline-bedazzled puffer jacket from this woman. Kimora Lee Simmons outfitted — and basically created — That Girl.
While streetwear was at its height of ultra-baggy, early ‘00s mess, Baby Phat brought femininity to the scene in a way that was simply unprecedented. Simmon’s iconic cat logo made its way through shrunken baby tees, fur-lined coats, velour tracksuits (released before Juicy Couture), thongs, and borderline NSFW low-rise jeans. Not only did Simmons’ establish many of the most recognizable “y2k” silhouettes that Depop girls are now fistfighting over, but she nearly singlehandedly carved the idea of women’s streetwear. Her designs weren’t simply sized-down versions of men’s jeans and logo tees — her clothing was crafted to fit, flatter, and celebrate the female body.
Despite being aesthetically disruptive from the rest of the industry, Baby Phat’s identity as a streetwear brand never wavered, thanks to Simmons’ position in hip hop culture and friendship with the most influential women within it (Aaliyah, Lil’ Kim, and Alicia Keys were customers). At a time when hip hop celebrities were largely ignored by high-fashion brands, Simmons not only dressed them, but turned their lifestyle into aspirational fashion. This was reflected in her runway shows, where Lil’ Kim walked the runway while Queen Latifah and Mary J. Blige watched from the front row.
Simmons’ blueprint proved that demand for female-focused streetwear existed, with stats to back it up. Between 2001 and 2002, Baby Phat’s revenue jumped from $30 million to $265 million. In 2006, after her husband had already sold and departed Phat Fashions, Kimora Lee was named president — making her one of the first women of color to lead a (by then) billion-dollar company.
As “y2k fashion” claws its way back via fashion’s 20-year nostalgia cycle, Baby Phat’s sparkly logo and body-hugging pieces are once again making the rounds. Streetwear has skyrocketed to the fashion mainstream since Baby Phat fell off in the early 2010’s, yet its inclusion of non-male customers is still moving in slow motion. Women continue to fight for a seat at the streetwear table, while it was already twenty years ago that Kimora Lee Simmons built (and bedazzled) her own.
Julia Lebosse is the founder and owner of Sneakers by Women, a Instagram platform dedicated to uplifting and celebrating women within the current streetwear landscape.
Where are you from, and where are you now?
I was born in the UK and have spent my entire life here, not far from London. I’m currently studying for a degree in Fashion Marketing/Buying at De MontFort University in Leicester.
What is your first memory with streetwear?
I honestly don't remember when I first discovered streetwear, but I recall being interested in the concept, since it was something you just didn't see people wearing where I grew up. As a timid kid, I would always make "shoe contact" before making eye contact, which is probably why I came to love footwear and sneakers so much.
If you had to compress your personal style into one outfit, what would it be?
I feel most comfortable in sweatpants and leggings, with my sneakers serving as the major focal point of my outfit. What matters most to me is having a cool, fly pair of kicks, then keeping my style simple but complementing what's on my feet. Often with some minimal gold jewelry, chunky socks, and a baseball cap.
Favorite femme-designed sneaker of all time:
There are so many that I adore! Women have gone crazy in the design industry, especially in the last year. The New Balance 327 by Charlotte Lee is a silhouette that I haven't stopped talking about since it was released. It’s the perfect blend of classic and modern, and it is the epitome of athleisure. Charlotte has completely changed the game at New Balance, so I'm always looking forward to seeing what she comes up with next.
What sparked you to create Sneakers by Women?
It was simply the result of built up frustration — frustration at not seeing women acknowledged in the sneaker industry, or very little. I felt as if there was no room for me in the industry I aspired to work in. But after research, I discovered so many women behind so many sneakers we love, as well as Black women who continue to lead the music and streetwear scenes. It baffled me that there was so little coverage on these incredible women and what they do. I set out to combat this, thus Sneakers by Women was born.
Sneakers by Women is an online platform and community paying tribute to females who shape streetwear and sneaker culture, while shedding light on industry inequalities and problems women face.
What’s your biggest goal for Sneakers by Women right now?
The main goal is to continue to grow a community of female and male allies who will collectively advocate for a more diverse sneaker industry! Through this, inspiring and encouraging the next generation of women to thrive in the ever-evolving sneaker world.
What’s your dream collaboration?
New Balance, no question. To be honest, I have flip-flopped between NB and Nike, but right now New Balance is my favourite sneaker brand. I would be over the moon to collaborate on any silhouette, but as an ‘02 baby, the 2002R holds a special place in my heart.
When do you feel the most empowered?
When I am empowering others, I feel most empowered. The best feeling is being able to help someone, even if they are a complete stranger. Having the ability to make someone else feel good about themselves is like a superpower!
What (most) needs to change about the current streetwear landscape?
The most important factor is equality across the board. For starters: women in campaigns, sneaker shows, and interviews. We must continue to push women up and prove to the world that yes, women can do it, and yes, they deserve to be a part of — and lead — the conversation. The sneaker industry is constantly developing and shifting, so those that cling to the past will quickly become irrelevant.
What woman in streetwear/sneaker history would you like to see get her flowers?
In short, everyone! There are so many that have contributed to developing the sneaker industry to what it is today, and so many of them are unknown to many. One woman that springs to mind is Pam Greene, one of Nike's first female designers, who worked there for two decades. So looking at her career path inside the company, and recognizing that, would be great!
Playa Society There is No Limit Hoodie, $65
The Next Pair by Christyna Pourhabib, digital download here
Colin Locascio Ava Mesh Top, $130
Melody Ehsani Hoop Dream Earrings, $56
New Balance 992, designed by Jodi Heppler and developed by Samantha Kehrer, $200
That’s all for this week! If there are any women you’d like to see featured in Tomboy (past or present), drop me a line. If you’re not already following ARIES on Instagram, maybe it’s time to stop embarrassing yourself? See you in two Fridays!